More is More is More at Gucci

Wes Anderson would approve.

Photos from Vogue.com, collage made by me.

My Gucci review is here! Unlike how I do my other fashion week reviews, where I select four to seven (ish) shows from each week to review, Milan Fashion Week is a bit different—I'm always only interested in reviewing Gucci. This favoritism started when I did my first ever show review master post, where I selected a few shows from each week in September of 2015 (SS16, if you were curious), but I only chose to review Gucci for the MFW section. Ever since, they've been the only ones who have actually caught my eye during this week. Alessandro Michele is just that talented!!! While it has remained my favorite fashion house since, well, September of 2015, they just keep getting better! It started with more then became more is more and now we're at more is more is more, or you could argue, because Michele has been designing for them for five seasons now, that more is more is more is more is more this season. Does that make sense?

Alessandro Michele won't stop his maximalist attitude with clothes—with each passing collection, he adds more accessories, more prints, more jewelry, more oomph, more wow factor. And he does it so artistically! It's kind of like that challenge where you have to put on all of your clothes at once, but minus the awkward marshmallow vibe that results from 20 sweaters layered together at the same time. 

As for my Wes Anderson comment, I'm not kidding in the slightest bit--Wes wouldn't only appreciate the aesthetics Alessandro played with in his Fall 2017 collection, but the director would file suit for copyright infringement of his infamous characters. Let's start from the beginning of his films (leaving out Bottle Rocket, insert sad face because that movie doesn't get any love):

No khakis or tie were included, but if you replace those pants with velvet pantaloons and that tie with a jewel-encrusted collar and long pussybow, the Gucci'd version of Max Fischer from Rushmore comes to life. May be a bit of a stretch, but that lion emblem on the model's belt definitely matches up with the Rushmore crest on Max's blazer. Even the glasses match! And we all know that Fischer would be one to wear floral socks with pumps (fight gender norms!). Also, doesn't that braided-headband thing (??) sort of resemble Max's coonskin cap?

Richie Tenebaum has always been one of my favorite characters in the Wes Anderson world—I blame it on my secret love for Luke Wilson and his really cool outfit. That '70s-esque camel suit and striped sweat band create a look that only The Royal Tenenbaums fans would immediately recognize, but now Gucci fans will, too, with an almost exact replica of the look, except now Gucci's version has the traditional Gucci Stripe™ embellishing the bland suit and grandpa glasses (these are very in) to replace Richie's full beard. The Gucci model is even wearing sneakers, as if he were ready to play tennis just like Richie! It's like Alessandro literally had to ask Wes to borrow these inspirations; that's how exact the match is. And that leads me to two important questions: a) is this considered stealing or just drawing from inspiration? And b) which came first: the Gucci Stripe™, or the stripes seen on Richie's sweat band?

Look, it's Chaz Tennenbaum from The Royal Tenenbaums. This one's obvious—replace the red Adidas tracksuit with a red zip-up jumpsuit. A.k.a. the Gucci version of a tracksuit, because they would never include this on the runway, unless they're jewel-encrusted track pants peeking out of a long camel coat, shown below:

Although this is a stretch, how could I pass up on the infamous Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou red hat, even if the rest of the Gucci outfit doesn't resemble the crew's outfits? There are some similarities, though—the uniformity of the Gucci jacquard suit is seen in the monochrome blue crew uniform. Replace the Adidas sneakers with half-shin socks and Renaissance style shoes, and now Ned Plimpton works for Gucci instead of his father.

It's Owen Wilson again! But in The Darjeeling Limited, wearing a suit and bandages instead of a hat and ship uniform. Gucci updated the neutral suit and lei the Whitman brothers don on their trip to India by combining the two—you guessed it, a floral-printed suit. Instead of having a Victorian floral print that we usually see in Gucci, this print seems to perfectly match the flowers seen on their trip through India. Those snakeskin boots remind me of the scenes representing some of the barren land of India:

Some food for thought: how cool would this Gucci girl look with a Darjeeling-esque suitcase?

Mrs. Fox from Fantastic Mr. Fox was definitely seen on the Gucci runway—this Gucci girl is literally wearing a fox mask, something we haven't seen in fashion, well, ever. Also, Mrs. Fox always had #outfitgoals, and Gucci is just emphasizing that with those super cool sheer floral sleeves (tights for your arms?) and pussybow sateen dress featuring some sort of aquatic creature. The connection between the fox and the aquatic creature? Unknown.

Suzy from Moonrise Kingdom grew up! This seems to be one of the more popular Wes Anderson-themed halloween costumes, next to Margot Tennenbaum, and Gucci finally transformed this costume into reality, switching soft gingham to brocade and embellishing her classic white collar and cuffs with jeweled black swirls. White socks remain a constant, but replace the saddle shoes with grown up heels (Stoker, anyone?) and those binoculars with that peculiar wand-looking-object that makes our most favorite coming-of-age character, well, not in her coming-of-age phase anymore. Very bittersweet. 

No Gucci looks directly represented any characters from Grand Budapest Hotel, the most recent Anderson film, but some represented the scenery that seems to be even more important than those character's #ootds. That model on the left, wearing a pastel pink coat encrusted with jewels and black swirls matches the impossible-to-miss color scheme of the hotel; the model in the middle represents (you guessed it!) the snow on the trees. Too much of a reach? I still bet Wes Anderson would approve. Grown-up Agatha (Saoirse Ronan's character) would definitely wear the pink coat during the winter months in Budapest, and maybe even the monstrous white gown at a ball.

Here are some other looks I loved:

Vogue called Michele an alchemist due to his ability to transform an ordinary girl into a Gucci Girl™, but I also want to call him a Renaissance man (pun intended) due to his ability to practically achieve everything—his collections are far more than fashion collections, they're displays of art, of beauty, of craft. And possibly direct displays of Wes Anderson's films. Now that's talent.

NYFW Fall 2017 reviews | LFW Fall 2017 reviews

See all of my show reviews from previous seasons here.

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How Alessandro Michele Won Fashion Month

collage made by me, and original photos from Vogue

Fashion week isn't necessarily a competition, but if you think about it, it could be, and maybe it should be. An immense amount of excellent reviews for a show is equivalent to the first place prize, correct? If this were true, then it's an obvious answer as to who won that award -- Alessandro Michele.

He's a name everyone should know by now, a.k.a. the new creative director of Gucci, the luxury brand that fits the definition of Italian high fashion. Michele has been the head designer for the brand for only a little over a year, but everyone, and I mean everyone, feels his strong influence over how he sustained the brand of Gucci but also created this new and brilliant, look for himself as a designer. He should be on everyone's top 10 list. He's definitely on mine, ever since his breathtaking SS16 show for Gucci last year.

There comes a rare moment in fashion month when the unbelievable happens, when everything falls into place, when a show gets 11 out of 10 stars, a 110%, a better than perfect. And for the past two seasons, Michele has been able to achieve this rare fashion moment, the moment all designers hope to attain. With Gucci, it's hard to find the mistakes. That's a designer's cue to know they've made it.

Michele introduces this collection of an impressive 70 looks that is a combination of probably a dozen different inspirations and styles. A dose of Italian Renaissance, as always, with a hint of '70s glam, Catherine de' Medici, vintage wallpaper-inspired prints, geek-chic glasses, and a touch of what Michele does best -- over accessorize. Oh, also add the fact that a New York street artist by the name of Trouble Andrew added a 2016 twist with graffiti-inspired designs to contrast with that vintage feel, because Michele's pieces have to have that it-factor, even if they already had it from the beginning of the planning period. Also, casting my favorite photographer/it-girl Petra Collins (who, I have discovered, is the epitome of a Gucci girl) as a model for the show may be the final detail to make the show a perfect 10.

Alessandro Michele's pathway to winning is a complex explanation, but it starts here: pair basic pleated midis with either really sophisticated tops, pearls and sequined bow included, or a basic tee and a bleached denim bomber (don't forget the fur-cuffs). But go overboard with the prints, no matter what. Also, tube socks with strappy heels can make or break your outfit, but I lean more towards the making option (and I think Michele did too).

Gucci thinks pantsuits are back in, so maybe working that Dana Scully look can actually be a thing again. Michele was able to make the most feminine and sophisticated one with a red and gold brocade print with a sequined bow and '70s-esque platforms, but he also says that masculine ones with a duller plaid pattern are okay too, just add at least one accessory, no matter how subtle, or the look will fail. That's what I love about this collection -- there are completely contrasting looks that fall on the opposite side of the spectrum, but Gucci is still able to make it all work together as a whole. I think only fashion geniuses can pull that stunt off. 

Snakeskin textures may be in, but Alessandro Michele says that actual snakes should be in, so he created several looks that were snake-centric with the slithering creature creating unique lines and shapes for his garments. He made a classic silk pleated dress vicious by adding a unique embroidery of a few snakes, or he continued the racy style of a black lace gown with a sequined snake sliding across the chest. Maybe if Michele was even more bold, he could have had real snakes crawling across the runway. I would assume most are glad that he stuck with just the clothes.

Sequins are nice, but sequins over a black sheer fabric is even nicer, especially when they abstractly resemble snakes (Gucci should just trademark snakes already). It can be made into a gown with puffy sleeves, or a midi skirt to be paired with a wild sweater filled with embroidered parrots and the illuminati sign. Is this the beginning of a conspiracy created by Alessandro Michele himself?

Prints are everything to Gucci (and so are colors and details), so Michele took the print idea to the next level by putting a collage of cherubs on a skirt (and strapless dress) to connect to his Italian roots. Who knew creepy paintings of babies from the 16th century could look so good on a person? The designer is even able to double print -- a Leonardo Davinci esque sun (face included) on top of a print that looks like it came straight from an Italian church. The most innovative part about his prints is that Michele really plays with color when it comes to them -- he washes out the babies with a deep red (does this make it even more creepy?), and he transfers a traditional print to a modern one with a bright turquoise. Gucci may be the reason why I'll become a fan of bright colors.

One of the reasons why Gucci feels so new this season is that Michele takes traditional pieces and adds a touch of his magic to create masterpieces. A cape is nothing new, but adding a graphic pattern to resemble folds and ruffles is. A jacquard coat is nothing we've never seen before, but a shin-length one that acts as a dress with shaggy fur cuffs may just be. This is what makes Michele a brilliant designer -- he's never satisfied with simple or the already-seen; he needs to have an extra level of fascination that makes his collections truly beautiful.

Movement seemed to be a recurring motif in Gucci's show, and Michele did not stick with simple versions. He used light fabrics or heavy ruffled ones to create pieces that flew across the stage, whether it was a cape across an ankle-grazing dress, huge bow included, or an elegant, long-sleeved floral gown. Michele also used unique prints to help those garments soar on their own, but these prints are nothing new. We've seen them in past collections, but they just seem to be getting bigger and better.

And we may think by now that it's gotta be the prints that made the show, or maybe the diversity of styles made it a truly special one. But in the end, I think it's due to the details, the small things Michele does that make great pieces excellent and out-there. Simply adding a puff of fur to a zebra-striped heel turns classic into idiosyncratic, adding a graffiti-styled "REAL" to a bag with an embossed Gucci logo creates a contrast of styles and a statement that most are not able to pull off. The use of huge bows in varying colors makes Michele's collection an individualistic one, and the juxtaposition of a funeral-themed mesh veil and oversized men's overcoat can produce noteworthy pieces that stand out to every fashion lover out there. I feel like the only way to describe Gucci's collection is to use fancy literary words like juxtaposition and idiosyncratic, and using these words is a compliment to the designer because it means he cares about so much more than the clothes. Fashion is never just fashion, as Alexander Wang probably believes, and Michele follows this rule by, well, making up his own rules. And that is what creates this innovative feel we all see in Gucci's pieces -- structure or fashion-rules are not put into consideration, only bold statements and beautiful looks, rule-following or not, are. Alessandro Michele is not some one-hit-wonder designer we'll forget about in a year, or even one we get intimidated by -- he's warm, as Vogue weirdly describes him, because he does his thing without trying to appear above other designers. His "thing" sure is working, though, and maybe the warmness is why we're immediately attracted to his collections, or maybe just because they're damn good. Alessandro, would you like me to mail or personally deliver your first place trophy?

All photos from Vogue

Who do you think should have gotten that theoretical first place prize, if you strangely disagree with my winner?

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Fashion Month

This is the first time that I'm actually going to be just like the majority of fashion bloggers out there by doing what everyone expects -- fashion show reviews. The only difference is that instead of physically going to the fashion shows, I had to do my research online. Scrolling through hundreds of designers for NYFW, LFW, MFW, and PFW and choosing your favorites is not an easy task, especially when you're in love with 80% of the collections. It was pretty simple choosing the ones that I definitely didn't love (that Jamaican themed Tommy Hilfiger show wasn't really my thing, and don't even get my started on the Valentino collection that just oozes cultural appropriation), but choosing the absolute best out of the ones that caught my eye took hours of watching way too many runway shows. But finally, after hours of what I like to call "fashion research", I compiled a list of my top 9 shows from the SS16 collections from this fashion month.


New York Fashion Week

NYFW is usually the one to steal my heart, but overall, this season it didn't necessarily deserve a standing O. However, a few shows ended up being my favorites from the entire bunch. And we'll start with...

Jeremy Scott

Photos by Giovanni Giannoni from WWD.com

It's nearly impossible to not include one of my favorite designers in my top nine shows from the SS16 collections. However, it's not even my favorite by him, but it still embodies the colorful and wild nature of Jeremy Scott's unique style. If we can get over Gigis' horrendous opening walk (why does she open most of the big runway shows these days? Why???) and some over-the-top men's fashion statements, this collection brings an obvious tribute to the '60s with a bang, because how else does Jeremy Scott work? Those bright patterns, a-line shapes, and flouncing retro wigs gave this collection a signature look, and I'm not sure if I'm completely in love, but I would love to see someone rocking that two-piece monster (is that what it is?) set off the runway.
Rating: 8.0

Public School

Photos from Vogue

Public School is one of my favorite New York-based brands, so it was also second nature for me to choose the duo's SS16 collection. It also has to be my favorite from all of NYFW's collections this season. Those navy blue and white oversized trenches and sweaters were practically calling my name the minute they stepped onto the runway. The collection gave off this practical chic aesthetic (just look at those shoes) that I would definitely wear next spring and summer. Designers, watch out for Public School, because they're getting bigger and better by the minute.

Rating: 9.6

Alexander Wang

Photos by Giovanni Giannoni from WWD.com

Once again, one of my other favorite designers. I stuck to the brands I knew for NYFW because that was the easiest way to find the ones I knew I would love, which isn't a compliment to this season's NYFW collections. However, this one definitely stood out for me and didn't fit in with the bland, "beachy vibes" that we got from most of NYFW's collections. This collection definitely showed who Alexander Wang is as a designer -- someone who wants to innovate new trends from the old. He created this dynamic collection in the grittiest way, using army green, denim, and revealing tops as the basis for his set. This designer turned casual, what looks like "your older brother's clothes" into individualized styles that make a bold statement. Props to you, Alexander Wang, for putting effort into everything you created with this collection, whether it's the actual pieces, the styling of the models, or even the racy after-party you hosted.
Rating: 8.5

London Fashion Week

This week upped NYFW just by a little bit because it was more difficult for me to choose which collections I liked the best. However, I only picked two -- I was going to include Topshop Unique, but it just didn't appeal to me this year (which is a huge shocker -- I can usually count on them). We'll start with a classic...

Burberry

Photos from londonfashionweek.com

I've honestly never been a huge fan of Burberry until now. They strayed away from their classic plaid aesthetic and went for a more military meets feminine look, which I'm all for this season. I'm starting to see a pattern in these collections -- a sort of utilitarian, masculine feel from the fabrics and a feminine touch from the cuts and shapes. Androgyny in fashion is one of my favorite trends, so keep it up, designers. I love how Burberry literally embodied the modern London woman feel with those gold trimmed blazers and black lace dresses. Also, Cara Delevingne and Annie Clarke were the cutest couple in the front row, and the 32-piece orchestra definitely made it a show that makes me envy the important people who get invited to these shows.
Rating: 9.4

Simone Rocha

Photos from Vogue

This is what I've been waiting for this fashion month. I didn't even know who Simone Rocha was until I was researching these shows, and once I stumbled upon her, I fell in love. Feminine shapes with cloudy, floral, and frilly aesthetics is what I love in fashion and exactly what Rocha brought with this collection. Valentino's collection last season had it, and now this season, it's Simone Rocha. What I love is that they're all ready to wear (unlike Valentino's haute couture gowns), so it makes these designs accessible for any occasion (if you don't mind looking like a literal angel). Even the ground these models walked on matched their godly outfits -- that green carpet just screams Parisian femininity. I would say that this is my favorite of the bunch, but the ones coming up get even better.
Rating: 9.9 

Milan Fashion Week

For some reason a lot of us seem to forget about MFW, but they always carry a lot of the most well known designers and brands (Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, etc). I absolutely loved most of these shows, but because I don't want to keep rambling about my favorite shows, I only chose one from this week. Because most of these shows were amazing, this show was obviously one of the best out of all of the shows from this season. And the lucky winner is...

Gucci

        

Photos from Vogue

Until now, I've never been the biggest fan of Gucci. I saw it as this overrated brand that slowly became a "joke" to the overpriced, high fashion world. But this is before I even looked into them that much, and once I saw this show, my view of them completely altered. This show made me realize how much I love fashion, because everything about it was so beautiful. The ethereal music with soft whispers in French (almost like she was like the painted snakes on the ground) and the angelic walks of all the models made the show an out-of-body experience (literally...), and I haven't even talked about the clothes yet. Gucci brought the Italian glamor we usually see in their collections with those intricate floral and snakeskin designs, but they also added a touch of "geek-chic" (as Vogue calls it) and a greek-goddess aesthetic to the collection. I've never been a fan of too much accessories, but the huge bows and flouncing skirts only worked well for this collection. Honestly, the best way to describe it is simply... beautiful, in every sense of the word.
Rating: 10 (yes, it's my favorite of all of them)

Paris Fashion Week

And we're down to the last week... This one was hands down the best. Of course, fashion month has to go out with a bang, and PFW definitely accomplished that. In the beginning, I had seven shows picked out just from this week, but I had to cut it down to just three. Before I even begin, I want to give an honorable mention to Elie Saab, one of my favorite designers ever. Your collection was amazing, but it didn't make the list. Let's start with...

Dior

Photos by Isidore Montag

I don't think a single fashion blogger talking about their favorite shows missed including the Dior show. Everything about it was magical, whether it was the genius location of the Louvre, the flower mountain that literally took two weeks to construct, or the well-designed collection that gave a sense of Parisian nostalgia. Those flowing veiled skirts and signature chokers gave this collection a certain look that everyone fell in love with. This show was a great way to start off PFW, and I'm pretty sure it was a prediction for how well the others went, because things just kept getting better.
Rating: 9.7


Moncler Gamme Rouge

Photos from Vogue

This designer for this collection, Giambattista Valli, is also one I have never heard of until I was researching all the PFW shows. And the same goes for this collection just like Simone Rocha's -- I'm in love. Everything about it, whether it was the literal meadow the models walked in or the styling of the sneakers with garden fairy-esque dresses, fit into what I love in fashion today. (Side note: I told you that I'm not the only one who likes to pair casual sneakers with dresses, like in this post.) This show also gave off a greek goddess feeling, but while Gucci did it in a fierce, "Nike" (the goddess of victory) way, Moncler Gamme Rouge did it in a soft, "Aphrodite" (the goddess of love) way. I also love how Valli used white in all of the pieces, but each one either has an accent of all white, metallic silver, red, or green. There's probably some symbolism in it that I don't want to go into right now, but bravo to Giambattista Valli for creating a collection that's fit for a fairy.
Rating: 9.9

Alexander McQueen

        

Photos from Vogue

Of course, I have to end this post with a bang, and what other way to do so than with the wonder that is Alexander McQueen. This isn't anywhere near my favorite out of the nine I selected, but I thought that the legacy McQueen brings would fit for the final review. Obviously, it's now Sarah Burton who now runs the brand, and while she still brings the traditional Alexander McQueen look (just look at those collars), she brought a subtle femininity to the usually over-the-top edgy brand. With Victorian-era collars and silhouettes, frilly layers, and a black and white color scheme, she goes back to a romantic time frame that is strange for McQueen, but also refreshing. Even without Alexander, the brand still runs strong with subtle changes yet still the same McQueen look we all know.
Rating: 8.8